in De Panne, Belgium
In the picturesque coastal town of De Panne, Belgium, restaurant Subtiel emerges as a new chapter in the culinary legacy of chef Stéphane Buyens and his partner Ellen Dulst. Housed in a charming villa, Subtiel offers an intimate and inviting atmosphere that reflects the duo’s vision for a dining experience rooted in elegance and creativity. This venture follows the closure of Hostellerie Le Fox, the renowned Michelin-starred establishment where Buyens spent decades perfecting his craft and earning acclaim as one of Belgium’s most celebrated chefs.
I had hoped to visit Hostellerie Le Fox before its closure, but unfortunately, I didn’t get the chance. So, I was delighted to see that Chef Buyens hadn’t completely stepped away but instead embarked on this exciting new endeavor with Subtiel. Naturally, my expectations were high. Sadly, they weren’t fully met.
During lunch, there were several small missteps. The first dish was a refreshing cheese salad, intended to be enjoyed with the delicate crackers included. However, they were so thin that it was nearly impossible to use them effectively. A simple solution could have been providing a small spoon alongside them.
For my starter of sole rolls, two out of the three pieces were slightly undercooked. The main course, unfortunately, wasn’t served hot enough. Additionally, what struck me as particularly odd was that neither the starter nor the main course was introduced upon being served. Instead, they were simply placed on the table with a quick “enjoy”—without any description of what I was about to eat.
Chef Stéphane Buyens brings a wealth of experience to Subtiel, having dedicated his life to the art of cooking. His journey began in the kitchens of Le Fox, where he developed a reputation for his mastery of classical techniques and his ability to innovate while respecting tradition. Ellen Dulst, who worked alongside Buyens for 25 years, now steps into the spotlight as the driving force behind Subtiel, infusing the restaurant with her passion for hospitality and her dream of creating a space that feels both refined and welcoming.
I understand that Subtiel isn’t aiming to recreate a fine-dining experience or chase a Michelin star. However, some fundamental aspects of service and execution—such as proper dish presentation and attention to small details—are elements that even an average brasserie tends to handle better.
Subtiel represents a harmonious blend of past and present, where the culinary expertise of Buyens meets the fresh perspective of Ellen Dulst. Together, they have crafted a restaurant that celebrates their shared history while embracing new possibilities. With its serene location and thoughtful design, Subtiel invites guests to embark on a journey of discovery, where every detail reflects the dedication and artistry of its creators. While my experience was not flawless, I remain hopeful that these early missteps will be refined over time, allowing Subtiel to live up to the legacy of its predecessors.
Chef: Stéphane Buyens
Date of visit: April 24th 2025
Website: https://www.subtiel-dining.be/en
