in Otterlo, Netherlands
Restaurant Cèpes: A Taste of the Veluwe with Room to Grow
Set on the edge of the spectacular Hoge Veluwe National Park, Restaurant Cèpes in Otterlo offers a dining experience deeply rooted in its surroundings. Housed within Hotel De Sterrenberg, the restaurant combines contemporary elegance with the tranquillity of one of the Netherlands’ most beautiful natural regions. Surrounded by forests, heathlands and wildlife, Cèpes has established itself as a destination where the connection between landscape and cuisine forms the foundation of the experience.
Leading the kitchen is chef Robert Hartelman, a prominent figure within Dutch gastronomy and the Veluwe culinary scene. Originally from the Achterhoek, Hartelman refined his craft through culinary education in Doetinchem and Apeldoorn before gaining experience at several respected restaurants across the country. His career eventually led him to Hotel De Sterrenberg, where years of dedication saw him rise to the position of head chef. Today, he is closely identified with the restaurant’s evolution and success. Under his guidance, Cèpes has earned recognition from Gault&Millau and joined the prestigious JRE-Jeunes Restaurateurs association.
The restaurant’s success is equally shaped by Liset Bom, owner and managing director of Hotel De Sterrenberg. After initially pursuing a career outside the family business, Bom returned in 2017 during a significant expansion of the hotel. Since then, she has transformed the property into one of the Netherlands’ leading hospitality destinations. Her focus on sustainability, employee wellbeing and long-term vision has earned both personal and professional recognition, including the Dutch Hotel Award for De Sterrenberg and the title of JRE Hostess of the Year.
Together, Hartelman and Bom have created a restaurant that reflects the character of the Veluwe while offering a refined and contemporary interpretation of Dutch gastronomy.
A Promising Start
The evening began with an amuse-bouche featuring a curry preparation. It proved to be one of the highlights of the menu. Well-balanced, aromatic and surprisingly layered, it immediately raised expectations for the courses to follow and set an encouraging tone for the dinner.
A tartlet inspired by tom kha kai curry continued the introduction to the menu and showcased the kitchen’s willingness to incorporate international influences into its repertoire. The use of curry throughout the opening stages of the meal provided a recurring theme that linked the first bites together.
Local Ingredients Take Centre Stage
The first starter featured beekridder, a locally sourced freshwater fish, accompanied by radish, grape, basil and grapefruit. The dish was pleasant and showcased the restaurant’s commitment to regional products, something that aligns perfectly with its Veluwe identity. However, it also felt like a course that could be elevated further. A subtle smoking of the fish might have added another layer of complexity, while an alternative fish variety could potentially have brought greater depth and character to the combination. The foundations were certainly there, but the dish seemed only a small step away from becoming truly memorable.
The monkfish course paired the fish with lardo, romesco and a Stroganoff-inspired jus. Technically well-executed, it introduced interesting flavour combinations. One element, however, stood out for the wrong reason. A small green cream or pasta-like garnish appeared to serve primarily a practical or visual purpose rather than contributing significantly to the flavour profile. It felt like a missed opportunity. A greener component could have brought freshness, acidity or even a touch of spice, providing a stronger counterpoint to the richness of the monkfish and lardo.
An Excellent Pigeon Dish Seeking Greater Harmony
The main course centred on Anjou pigeon with pistachio, fig and beetroot jus scented with five-spice. The pigeon itself was flawlessly cooked, displaying the beautiful rosé centre that fine dining enthusiasts hope for in such a dish. The accompanying vegetables were equally impressive, demonstrating precision and care in their preparation.
Yet despite the quality of the individual components, the dish felt somewhat divided into two distinct parts: the pigeon on one side and the vegetables on the other. While both elements were excellent in isolation, there was a slight lack of cohesion that prevented the dish from reaching its full potential. A stronger unifying element or flavour bridge might have brought the various components together and created a more harmonious whole.
A Light and Elegant Finale
Dessert came in the form of a combination of rice, mandarin, pandan and white chocolate. Following the richness of the preceding courses, it delivered exactly what was needed: freshness, balance and restraint. The citrus notes of the mandarin paired beautifully with the fragrant character of pandan, resulting in a light and elegant conclusion to the meal.
Final Thoughts
Restaurant Cèpes offers a dining experience that reflects the strengths of both its location and its leadership. The connection to the Veluwe is evident throughout the menu, and the technical execution displayed by Robert Hartelman’s kitchen is consistently strong. Several dishes showed genuine promise, while the opening curry amuse and the perfectly prepared pigeon demonstrated the restaurant’s capabilities at their best.
At the same time, the dinner occasionally felt as though it was only a few small refinements away from reaching an even higher level. Greater flavour impact in certain garnishes, stronger integration between components and a little more daring in some compositions could elevate already solid dishes into truly exceptional ones.
In the end, Cèpes delivers an enjoyable and thoughtfully crafted fine dining experience. For guests visiting the Hoge Veluwe, it remains a compelling culinary destination, and one that appears well positioned to continue evolving in the years ahead.
Chef: Robert Hartelman
Date of visit: November 11th 2026
Website: https://cepes.nl
Michelin: Selected Restaurant
Gault & Millau: 13.5
