in MDina – Malta
De Mondion is a distinguished restaurant located in Mdina, Malta, housed within the historic Xara Palace, a 17th-century baroque palazzo. The restaurant takes its name from Charles François de Mondion, the French architect who played a significant role in rebuilding Mdina after the devastating earthquake of 1693. Set within the fortified walls of the city, De Mondion offers a refined dining experience that reflects both the grandeur of its surroundings and the culinary expertise of its team.
The restaurant has been a key player in Malta’s fine dining scene, earning recognition for its dedication to craftsmanship and innovation. In 2020, De Mondion was awarded its first Michelin star, marking a milestone in its journey. Over the years, it has remained committed to showcasing Mediterranean flavors while embracing contemporary techniques.
The kitchen is led by a team of skilled chefs who bring a wealth of experience to the restaurant. Kevin Bonello, who was head chef for nearly two decades, played a pivotal role in shaping its culinary identity. His career included training in London and working alongside Michelin-starred chefs such as Éric Frechon and Gordon Ramsay. More recently, the restaurant has continued to evolve under new leadership, maintaining its commitment to excellence while exploring fresh perspectives.
Hidden within Mdina, often referred to as the “Silent City,” The Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux stands as a striking historical landmark. On its rooftop terrace sits De Mondion, offering breathtaking views over the island. Unfortunately, the wind was a little too strong during our visit, so we were seated inside the restaurant instead. Even so, the panoramic outlook remained impressive, especially as the evening progressed and the island’s lights illuminated the landscape.
Our menu for the night, Taste of Malta, reflected a fusion of the freshest local produce combined with carefully selected international ingredients. With dish names like “Burrattina,” “Gozintan Octopus,” and “Suckling Pig,” the meal was a representation of Malta’s vibrant culinary identity. Every course highlighted the balance between tradition and innovation, making the experience truly memorable.
One aspect that stood out was the international character of the restaurant’s team. Conversations flowed effortlessly in French, Dutch, and English, as staff members from across the world contributed to the welcoming atmosphere. It was clear that De Mondion serves as a sought-after destination for culinary professionals eager to refine their craft.
As the evening drew to a close, the view from our table became even more magical, with the island’s shimmering lights adding a final touch to the experience. The combination of history, hospitality, and cuisine made for a dining experience that blended the best of Malta’s past and present in an unforgettable way.
Chef: Gabriel Caruana
Date of visit: April 26th 2023
Website: https://demondion.xaracollection.com/
Michelin: 1 star
La Liste: 89.5
