in Malroy, France

Aux 3 Capitaines: Generous Hospitality in the Heart of Lorraine

Tucked away in the small Lorraine village of Malroy, just a few kilometres north of Metz and close to the banks of the Moselle River, Aux 3 Capitaines is a restaurant deeply rooted in its local surroundings. The building has long been a recognised destination in the region, and its peaceful location offers visitors a glimpse of the authentic charm that characterises this part of northeastern France. Far from the bustle of the city, Malroy provides a tranquil setting where local heritage, warm hospitality and a strong sense of community remain at the heart of daily life.

A new chapter in the restaurant’s history began in 2024 when Anaïs and Benoît Potdevin took over the establishment. Benoît Potdevin is already a well-respected name in Lorraine’s gastronomic landscape, having previously earned recognition as the chef of Le K at Domaine de la Klauss in Montenach. His experience at one of the region’s most admired fine dining destinations has brought fresh ambition and renewed energy to Aux 3 Capitaines, while ensuring the restaurant remains faithful to its identity and its regional roots.

Alongside him, Anaïs Potdevin plays a key role in shaping the guest experience. Overseeing the dining room with warmth and professionalism, she ensures that hospitality remains one of the restaurant’s defining strengths. Her personal approach and attention to detail help create an atmosphere that is both relaxed and welcoming, reflecting the couple’s shared vision for the future of this historic address.

In the kitchen, Benoît is supported by Frédéric Lorrain, a chef who has been part of Aux 3 Capitaines since 2013. His long-standing presence provides continuity and an intimate understanding of the restaurant’s traditions. Together, the team combines local knowledge with experience gained at some of Lorraine’s most respected establishments, contributing to the renewed prominence of this Moselle destination.

The Michelin Guide recognised this approach by awarding Aux 3 Capitaines a Bib Gourmand, an accolade reserved for restaurants offering excellent value for money. After a recent visit, it quickly became clear that this is a distinction the restaurant fully deserves. In an era when many restaurants focus on increasingly elaborate concepts and smaller portions, Aux 3 Capitaines stays true to a more generous philosophy. Here, guests enjoy honest cooking, quality ingredients and portions that leave nobody feeling short-changed.

That generosity extends well beyond the food. From the outset of the meal, both the champagne and accompanying wines were poured with remarkable generosity. There is an unforced confidence in this approach, as if the restaurant genuinely wants guests to feel comfortable and cared for rather than calculating every millilitre. It creates a sense of abundance that is becoming increasingly rare in contemporary dining.

The same philosophy was evident throughout the menu. Portions arrived with an appealing sense of generosity, offering guests the opportunity to fully appreciate each dish without feeling rushed towards the next course. Yet despite these substantial servings, the restaurant maintains a level of refinement worthy of its Michelin recognition.

One of the first highlights came in the form of a refreshing gazpacho accompanied by a small ham-filled bread roll. While such accompaniments often feel like an afterthought, this bread roll was a dish in its own right. Richly flavoured and carefully executed, it complemented the chilled gazpacho beautifully. The decision to serve the two together demonstrated thoughtful menu design, allowing both elements to enhance one another rather than compete for attention.

Another memorable course was the pâté en croûte, a classic of French gastronomy. Rich, flavourful and technically well executed, it showcased the kitchen’s respect for tradition. The dish leaned towards the heavier side, which is perhaps unavoidable given the nature of the preparation, but it nevertheless delivered the comforting depth and richness one expects from this timeless speciality.

The fish course provided one of the meal’s undeniable highlights. Accompanied by a beautifully executed beurre blanc, the dish demonstrated the kitchen’s mastery of sauce-making, one of the foundations of French culinary excellence. The sauce possessed the perfect balance between richness and freshness, coating the fish without overwhelming its delicate character. It was one of those moments that remind diners how transformative a perfectly crafted sauce can be.

For those with a particular appreciation for citrus flavours, the dessert selection offers an excellent conclusion to the meal. The “Selection of citrus fruits in the style of a deconstructed lemon tart, lemon sorbet” proved to be a standout finale. Bright, fresh and elegantly balanced, it celebrated the vibrant acidity and aromatic complexity of citrus fruits while avoiding excessive sweetness. The deconstructed presentation added a contemporary touch, while the lemon sorbet brought refreshing intensity and clarity to the plate. Citrus enthusiasts will find much to admire in this sophisticated and refreshing dessert.

What makes Aux 3 Capitaines especially appealing is the balance it achieves between gastronomic ambition and genuine hospitality. Under the leadership of Anaïs and Benoît Potdevin, the restaurant has entered a promising new era while retaining the warmth and authenticity that have long defined it. The presence of Frédéric Lorrain further reinforces this continuity, ensuring that the restaurant remains connected to its history even as it evolves.

In many ways, Aux 3 Capitaines represents exactly what the Bib Gourmand category is intended to celebrate. The food is thoughtfully prepared, the ingredients are treated with respect, the service is warm and professional, and the value offered is exceptional. Most importantly, guests leave feeling that they have been looked after, not only through the quality of the cooking but also through the generosity that permeates every aspect of the experience.

For travellers exploring the Moselle region or diners seeking a rewarding gastronomic detour near Metz, Aux 3 Capitaines is a destination that deserves attention. It may not seek the theatricality often associated with modern fine dining, but it succeeds in something arguably more important: delivering delicious food, sincere hospitality and outstanding value in a setting that feels genuinely connected to its surroundings. In a world where authenticity is sometimes difficult to find, Aux 3 Capitaines offers it in abundance.

Chef: Benoît Potdevin and Frédéric Lorrain
Date of visit: September 26th 2026
Website: https://www.aux-trois-capitaines.com
Michelin: Bib Gourmand
Gault & Millau: 11.5