in Duffel, Belgium

Nuance, Duffel: A Second Visit That Changed Everything

More than three years after my first visit to Nuance in Duffel, I returned with high expectations. The restaurant has long been one of Belgium’s culinary flagships, led by two-Michelin-star chef Thierry Theys and his wife Sofie Willemarck. Theys built his experience in some of Europe’s most prestigious kitchens, including Alain Ducasse’s restaurant in Paris, le Plaza Athénée.

What struck me most this time, however, was not the accolades, the stars, or the impressive résumé. It was the atmosphere. The difference compared to my previous visit was remarkable.

From the moment we entered, Nuance felt alive. The dining room buzzed with energy without ever becoming chaotic. Service operated with a precision that can only come from countless hours of training and attention to detail. Throughout the evening, dishes appeared and disappeared from the table in seamless harmony. Watching the service team at work felt almost like witnessing a synchronized ballet. Plates arrived and were cleared with impeccable timing, a performance that was every bit as captivating as the food itself.

The evening began with an aperitif trolley that immediately set the tone. Champagne lovers would find it difficult not to smile at the sight of bottles such as Krug and Dom Pérignon Vintage 2008 waiting to tempt guests. It was a statement of intent: this was going to be a celebration of luxury and craftsmanship from start to finish.

Alongside the aperitif came five amuse-bouches. Each was beautifully presented and thoughtfully composed, but one stood out in particular. A combination of cashew, charred pineapple, and corn delivered a surprising interplay of sweet, smoky, nutty, and fresh flavours. It was one of those bites that forces a brief pause in conversation as everyone around the table processes what just happened. Unexpected combinations can sometimes feel gimmicky; here they felt completely natural and immensely satisfying.

The first official course showcased North Sea crab. Visually, it was one of the most beautiful dishes of the evening. Every element seemed carefully placed, resulting in a plate that looked almost too elegant to disturb. Fortunately, the flavours matched the presentation. Delicate and refined, the crab was elevated by small green dots that added a subtle spicy kick, bringing balance and excitement to every bite. It was a dish that demonstrated exactly why seafood can be so captivating when treated with restraint and precision.

The next course featured Saint-Pierre à la Sicilienne accompanied by a bouillabaisse preparation. The flavours were rich and accomplished, and the Mediterranean influences came through clearly. If I had one minor observation, it would be that I personally would have preferred a slightly more delicate fish for this preparation. Saint-Pierre has a firm texture, and while it worked well, a lighter fish might have allowed the other flavours to shine even more brightly. That said, this was a very small detail within an otherwise highly successful dish.

Then came the main course, which for me was the highlight of the evening.

The roe deer was cooked perfectly, but what truly elevated the dish was the seasoning. The balance of spices and aromatics enhanced the natural character of the game without overwhelming it. It was a masterclass in restraint and confidence. Every element on the plate seemed to have a purpose, contributing to a harmonious whole.

One of my dining companions chose a seafood main course instead, and it looked equally impressive. The generosity of the portion immediately stood out. An abundant serving of fish accompanied by lobster conveyed a sense of luxury that felt entirely justified at this level of dining. Judging from both appearance and the enthusiastic reaction from across the table, it was clearly one of the stars of the menu.

As the savoury courses concluded, the meal transitioned into dessert. Two sweet creations followed, both demonstrating the same technical precision that characterized the earlier courses. Yet the evening was not quite over.

A series of additional treats arrived at the table, including a memorable kumquat preparation filled with sorbet. Bright, refreshing, and intensely cold, it seemed like the perfect final note after an extensive tasting menu. The citrus freshness cleansed the palate and left us feeling pleasantly satisfied.

Or so we thought.

One final surprise awaited us.

In what felt like a respectful nod to Thierry Theys’ culinary past, the team presented a baba au rhum that was finished tableside according to classic tradition. It was a theatrical moment, but one grounded firmly in culinary heritage rather than showmanship for its own sake. For those familiar with Alain Ducasse’s legendary Le Louis XV in Monaco, the reference was unmistakable. The tableside preparation remains one of the signatures associated with that iconic restaurant, where Theys once gained experience during his formative years.

The baba itself was magnificent: rich, aromatic, indulgent, and wonderfully nostalgic. It served as a fitting conclusion to an evening that successfully balanced modern gastronomy with respect for tradition.

Looking back, the most remarkable aspect of this visit is how much my impression of Nuance has evolved. My first visit, more than three years ago, left me somewhat unconvinced. This second experience was completely different. The restaurant felt more confident, more vibrant, and more complete. The service was exceptional, the atmosphere engaging, and the cooking demonstrated both technical mastery and genuine personality.

Nuance today is not merely a restaurant serving outstanding food. It is an experience in which every component, from the champagne trolley to the final baba au rhum, contributes to a carefully orchestrated whole.

It is rare to revisit a restaurant after several years and discover such a significant and positive transformation. Yet that is exactly what happened here.

For me, this was not simply a very good dinner. It was a reminder that great restaurants never stand still. They evolve, refine, and improve. On this evidence, Nuance continues to do exactly that, and the result is one of the most memorable fine-dining experiences I have enjoyed in recent years.

Chef: Thierry Theys
Date of visit: August 28th 2026
Website: https://resto-nuance.be/
Michelin: 2 stars
Gault & Millau: 18
La Liste: 89