in Cadzand – The Netherlands
Perched atop the dunes of Cadzand, Pure C was a restaurant that drew much of its identity from the landscape surrounding it. Opened in 2010 under the guidance of Sergio Herman, it quickly distinguished itself through a cuisine that embraced the North Sea, Zeeland’s terroir, and a spirit of innovation. At the culinary helm stood Syrco Bakker, formerly sous-chef at the legendary Oud Sluis. His modern, technique-driven approach earned Pure C its first Michelin star in 2011, followed by a second in 2018, securing its place among the Benelux’s most celebrated dining destinations.
Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed and escorted to our table. Before the evening began, the team explained that service would be conducted in English, as many of the staff members were part of an international brigade. This was not a problem for us, although it quickly became apparent that much of the dining room was staffed by young interns. Their service was technically correct and carefully executed, yet often felt somewhat scripted. Explanations seemed rehearsed and were repeated almost verbatim throughout the room, occasionally making them difficult to follow. There were moments when interactions lacked the natural spontaneity and engagement one hopes to find at this level of dining.
The meal itself began on a promising note. One of the opening amuse-bouches was nothing short of exceptional, delivering an explosion of flavour and creativity that immediately raised expectations. It was the kind of bite that captures everything guests hope to experience at a two-star restaurant: precision, surprise, and emotion. In many ways, it felt like a glimpse of the culinary heights that Pure C was capable of reaching.
As the menu progressed, however, that initial excitement gradually faded. While the dishes remained technically accomplished and visually attractive, they did not consistently build upon the momentum created by those first bites. The sense of discovery that often defines memorable tasting menus became less apparent as the evening unfolded.
One course in particular stood out, though perhaps not for the reasons intended. Presented in an oyster shell, the dish naturally suggested the briny freshness of an oyster. Instead, it featured a vivid green sphere constructed around spinach, concealing an oyster within. While the presentation was undeniably playful, the dominant spinach flavour overwhelmed the delicate marine qualities of the oyster itself. Rather than achieving harmony between the two elements, the result felt somewhat disconnected, leaving us wondering whether the concept had taken precedence over balance.
When the meal concluded, a Dutch-speaking member of the team approached our table to ask about our experience. After sharing our impressions, we were invited to discuss them once more with the maître d’. The conversation proved revealing. Our comments regarding a particular dish were met with the explanation that it was inspired by Sergio Herman and therefore considered untouchable in its execution. Likewise, when we asked about the absence of Dutch wines on the wine list, we were told rather directly that Dutch wines were not of sufficient quality. If we wished to explore them, we were advised to visit AIRrepublic instead.
Those exchanges perhaps illustrated the contrast that defined our evening. Pure C was unquestionably ambitious, creative, and eager to challenge conventions. Yet some of its choices, both on the plate and in the dining room, felt more focused on defending concepts than engaging with the guest experience. Innovation can be captivating when it enhances flavour and storytelling, but it can also raise questions when the idea becomes more memorable than the dish itself.
Looking back, Pure C remains a fascinating chapter within the Sergio Herman universe. While not every element resonated with us, it was impossible not to admire the restaurant’s willingness to experiment and push boundaries. Even when those experiments were not entirely successful, they reflected a restaurant searching for new perspectives rather than resting on established formulas.
Only a few weeks after our visit, Syrco Bakker officially departed Pure C, marking the end of an important era for the restaurant. In August 2023, Sergio Herman announced the closure of both Pure C and AIRrepublic. Pure C served its final guests on 23 September 2023, while AIRrepublic closed several months later on 30 March 2024. A location once synonymous with culinary innovation entered a new chapter, and in April 2024, chef Dani Hoefnagels opened Demain in the former Pure C space.
Today, Pure C belongs to the history books of Dutch and Belgian gastronomy. For many guests, it represented a bold and inventive culinary destination; for others, a restaurant whose ambitions occasionally outpaced its execution. Either way, its influence on the region’s fine dining landscape remains undeniable.
Chef: Sergio Herman & Syrco Bakker
Date of visit: April 14th 2023
Website: permanently closed
Michelin: 2 stars
Gault & Millau: 18
