in Vienna – Austria

On a cold December evening, we took the subway to reach Pramerl & The Wolf. After navigating a few small streets, we finally arrived at the restaurant, nestled in Vienna’s ninth district. Housed in a former pub, it exudes a warm, inviting atmosphere where tradition meets modernity. With a reservation for the 6 PM service, we noted that it seemed identical to the later ones, apart from the price. The €40 discount for the Early Bird service—available only on Fridays and Saturdays—was a welcome surprise.

Pramerl & The Wolf is the vision of Wolfgang Zankl-Sertl, a chef who took an unconventional path into the culinary world. Having trained at the esteemed Mraz & Sohn, he developed a philosophy centered around simplicity and a deep respect for ingredients. This philosophy is reflected in the restaurant’s approach, where reduction and thoughtful execution shape the dining experience.

With only one menu available, the choice was straightforward, though the experience itself was anything but predictable. The restaurant has a way of challenging expectations, particularly for those familiar with Austrian cuisine. While some traditional elements remain recognizable, significant modifications create an entirely new interpretation—sometimes in surprising ways. What should have been sweet turned out to be quite the opposite, an unexpected twist that might be regarded as the chef’s personal touch. However, not every alteration was met with enthusiasm.

The same creative liberties extended beyond the food. A fellow guest remarked that a gin and tonic with cucumber might not be the best idea, yet that was exactly how the drink was served. But as always, tastes differ. Pramerl & The Wolf is a restaurant that dares to reimagine familiar flavors, offering an experience that is both intriguing and unconventional. Whether stepping into its welcoming space for the first time or returning for another round of surprises, every visit carries the imprint of a chef and a philosophy that values originality above all else.

Chef: Wolfgang Zankl
Date of visit: December 8th 2023
Website: http://pramerlandthewolf.com/?lang=en
Michelin: 1 star
Gault & Millau: 17.5