in Heeze – The Netherlands

Tribeca is a restaurant in Heeze, Netherlands, that has established itself as a fine dining destination. The restaurant is housed in a building that dates back to 1916, carrying a rich history that adds to its character. Before Tribeca opened its doors, the space was home to the restaurant Boreas, led by chef Nico Boreas. In 2016, Jan Sobecki took over the location, bringing his own vision to life.

Sobecki, who previously worked at the two-starred Chapeau!, transitioned smoothly into his new venture, officially opening Tribeca on August 15, 2016. His approach to gastronomy is shaped by his experience in high-level kitchens, where precision and creativity play a central role. Since its inception, Tribeca has been recognized for its dedication to craftsmanship and innovation, making it a notable name in the culinary world.

For a long time, Tribeca had been on my wish list, and today, I finally made the journey to Heeze. Upon entering, we were offered the option to start in the lounge by the fire, which we happily accepted. Before receiving the menu, the staff proposed an aperitif—champagne, a cocktail, or a mocktail. One of us opted for a mocktail, while the other chose champagne. As the first amuse-bouches were served, we reviewed the menu and decided on the “Tribeca 6 Course Experience.” According to the menu and website, this included the Tribeca Coupe as an appetizer, amuses, accompanying wines or non-alcoholic cocktails, water, and coffee or tea service. In Belgium, a glass of champagne is often referred to as “een coupke,” so we naturally assumed the Tribeca Coupe referred to champagne and was included. However, when the bill arrived, we found an additional charge for the champagne—not much, but enough to feel slightly misled. It would have been clearer if they had also proposed the Tribeca Coupe and explained that it came with a small extra charge.

As I don’t drink alcohol, I opted for the accompanying non-alcoholic cocktails. The ingredients were promising, but the drinks themselves turned out to be overly diluted. I would have preferred less fluid in my glass but with a stronger concentration of flavor. A recurring detail in both the food and drinks was the emphasis on aroma—often a delicate citrus scent added complexity, though the actual taste lacked the expected citrus intensity.

The menu had two standout moments for me. The first course featured sea bass alongside sea urchin, delivering an excellent salty contrast. The second course, centered around scallops, was complemented by a celeriac mousse, adding an earthy depth that paired beautifully. While the remaining courses were well executed, they did not evoke the same excitement as the first two.

We were also served bread, accompanied by a butter infused with porcini mushrooms, which was an absolute delight. As the meal came to a close, we received a madeleine—a gesture that seems to be common in fine dining restaurants. This one, however, stood out as the best madeleine we had ever tasted.

Overall, the lunch was enjoyable, but did it fully meet my expectations? Not quite. Tribeca is undeniably a restaurant of high ambition, and while certain elements of the experience were impressive, there were moments that left me wishing for a little more. Despite this, it remains a place where craftsmanship and attention to detail shine through, making it an interesting destination for those seeking a refined dining experience.

Chef: Jan Sobecki
Date of visit: December 22nd 2023
Website: https://restaurant-tribeca.com/en/
Michelin: 2 stars
Gault & Millau: 19
La Liste: 95.5