July 27, 2024
Bib Gourmand, Norway

Smalhans

in Oslo – Norway

Nestled in Oslo’s St. Hanshaugen neighborhood, Smalhans has been quietly charming locals and visitors alike since 2012. The name, meaning “scarce way of life,” hints at the restaurant’s founding philosophy: a deep respect for ingredients, sustainability, and a no-frills approach to hospitality. The building itself has a long history of welcoming diners—it’s been home to restaurants since 1921—and Smalhans continues that tradition with a distinctly modern twist.

The kitchen is led by Mads Ekrheim, a chef who brings a thoughtful, seasonal touch to the menu, following in the footsteps of Karla Siverts and Karl Torbjørn Andersen. Their collective influence is still felt in the restaurant’s ethos: whole-animal cooking, minimal waste, and a love for simple, honest food. The menu offers a choice between six or eight courses, each one crafted with care and served without unnecessary fuss. It’s just good food—nothing more, nothing less.

But Smalhans is more than what’s on the plate. It’s gezellig in the best sense of the word: warm, relaxed, and effortlessly social. The kind of place where you might strike up a conversation with a young staff member and end up deep in discussion about everything from food to life. The team may be youthful, but they bring a refreshing sincerity and openness to the experience.

And then there are the sauces—rich, flavorful, and clearly made with love. It’s almost a shame there’s no bread to mop them up. But there’s a reason for that: the kitchen simply doesn’t have time to bake it themselves, and they refuse to serve anything less than top quality. That kind of integrity is hard not to admire.

Smalhans isn’t trying to impress with grandeur. It’s a place that values connection, craft, and comfort. Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or just someone who appreciates a good meal in good company, it’s the kind of spot that stays with you long after the last bite.

Chef: Mads Ekrheim
Date of visit: July 27h 2024
Website: https://www.smalhans.no
Michelin: Bib Gourmand

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