in Sint-Denijs-Westrem, Belgium
Nestled in the heart of Gent, Sensum is a restaurant that aims to awaken all the senses. Housed in a beautifully restored Art Nouveau kasteel, it presents an ambiance where history and modern elegance intertwine. Led by Maurice De Jaeger and Deborah Hellburg, Sensum is built on a vision of hospitality, creativity, and refined dining. Yet, as with any restaurant, atmosphere and service play just as vital a role as the culinary artistry itself.
Upon entering Sensum, however, the tension emanating from the hostess was immediately noticeable, casting a shadow over the initial atmosphere and affecting the rest of the service staff. It did not create the most welcoming first impression. Fortunately, the two temporary staff members went above and beyond to ensure we still felt warmly received—kudos to them.
Moving on to the dishes, I’ll focus on the first appetizer and the dessert.
The appetizer, featuring asparagus, Persian caviar, and parsley, presented an intriguing combination. The interplay between the asparagus espuma and the caviar seemed risky—would the asparagus overpower the delicate salinity of the caviar? Or would the caviar overwhelm the asparagus? To my great surprise, the two elements complemented each other beautifully, their flavors striking a perfect balance.
The dessert, composed of rhubarb, strawberry, sour cream, and roselle flower, had the potential to be a delightful conclusion to the meal. However, for me, it lacked the necessary freshness. Why opt for a rhubarb mousse instead of rhubarb ice cream? The cooling effect of ice cream could have provided the perfect finishing touch—an opportunity missed.
To our astonishment, as we were leaving, the hostess had transformed—suddenly warm and welcoming. Unfortunately, the stress she exhibited at the beginning had already left its mark on the overall experience and influenced the rest of the staff.
Sensum undeniably offers a unique setting and the foundation for an extraordinary dining experience. However, on this particular occasion, the service and overall atmosphere did not fully live up to the promise of refined hospitality.
Chef: Maurice De Jaeger
Date of visit: April 21st 2025
Website: https://sensumgent.be/
Michelin: 1 star
Gault & Millau: 15.5
