in Zwolle, Netherlands
In the historic heart of Zwolle, De Librije has long stood as the standard-bearer of Dutch gastronomy. Originally housed in the former library of a 15th-century Dominican abbey, the restaurant opened in 1993 under the leadership of Jonnie and Thérèse Boer. Since relocating in 2015 to a beautifully transformed 18th-century women’s prison, De Librije has continued to evolve while maintaining the spirit that made it one of Europe’s most celebrated dining destinations.
Jonnie Boer’s influence on modern Dutch cuisine is impossible to overstate. Beginning his culinary journey in his parents’ hotel and restaurant, he developed a profound respect for local products and traditional cooking. Over the years, he became renowned for his innovative use of seasonal ingredients, many of them foraged personally, and for creating a cuisine that was unmistakably rooted in the Netherlands while remaining internationally admired. Alongside him stood Thérèse Boer, whose expertise as hostess and sommelier helped shape De Librije’s reputation for exceptional hospitality and world-class wine pairings.
The accolades followed naturally. De Librije earned its first Michelin star in 1993, a second in 1999, and its third in 2004, securing its place among the culinary elite. Yet in April 2025, the restaurant and the wider gastronomic community suffered a devastating loss when Jonnie Boer passed away unexpectedly at the age of 60. His death marked the end of a remarkable chapter in culinary history, leaving behind not only a business but a legacy that transformed Dutch fine dining.
My visit took place just a few months after Jonnie’s passing, and his absence was impossible to ignore. Thérèse had admirably resumed her role as hostess, a testament to her professionalism and resilience during an undoubtedly difficult period. Yet there was an undeniable sadness in the atmosphere, a feeling that quietly accompanied the experience from the moment of arrival.
During lunch, guests were invited to visit both the kitchen and the wine cellar, an opportunity offered to everyone dining that day. It was here that Jonnie’s presence felt strongest. Part of the space had been arranged almost as a tribute, featuring personal items and mementos, including one of his stoves. While the intention was entirely understandable and undoubtedly meaningful for the family and the team, it also created a moment of emotional confrontation.
For many, Jonnie Boer’s passing was a deeply felt loss. Yet dining out is often about celebration, relaxation, and escapism. As a guest, I found myself unexpectedly drawn back into the sadness of the event rather than fully immersed in the pleasure of the meal. The tribute was heartfelt and sincere, but it occasionally felt as though the restaurant was still navigating the delicate balance between remembrance and moving forward.
On the culinary side, there were certainly highlights. One of the most memorable dishes was also one of the simplest: a bean preparation bursting with an astonishing depth of flavor. It perfectly demonstrated the philosophy that made Jonnie’s cuisine so influential, elevating humble ingredients into something extraordinary.
Another standout was the famous Marigold Egg, one of De Librije’s signature creations. Available as a supplement, the dish showcased the technical precision and creativity for which the restaurant is known. Beautifully executed and deeply satisfying, it remains a compelling reason to visit.
Yet despite these moments of brilliance, the overall experience never quite reached the emotional or culinary heights I had expected from one of Europe’s most revered restaurants. Everything was executed with professionalism and care, but there was no moment that truly left me speechless or transformed the meal into something unforgettable.
De Librije remains a gastronomic monument and an essential part of the Netherlands’ culinary heritage. Its legacy is secure, and its place in fine dining history unquestionable. However, during this transitional period, the restaurant felt caught between honoring an extraordinary past and defining its future. I left with immense respect for what Jonnie Boer built and for the strength of the team carrying his vision forward, but not with the feeling of being completely blown away.
Chef: Jonnie Boer | Nelson Tanate
Date of visit: November 28th 2025
Website: https://www.librije.com/
Michelin: 3 stars
Gault & Millau: 19.5
La Liste: 97.5
